A trip to Iceland – August 2-9, 2014
Day One
We took an overnight flight and arrived at the Keflavík International Airport about 9am. The airport is about 45 minutes from Reykjavík. It used to be a part of a U.S. military base, not a public airport. There is an airport in Reykjavík but it’s too small for todays huge jets, so Keflavík serves most flights.
Despite not getting much sleep on the flight, we tried to stay awake all day to fight the jetlag – but gave up and napped. We did get out and explore Reykjavík though that afternoon and evening, which included drinks at The English Pub, coffee at The Laundromat Cafe, and dinner at K-Bar.
Day Two (Morning)
We snagged some iced coffees at Reykjavík Roasters (an excellent little joint) and grabbed some groceries before heading out of town. We learned that Iceland loves licorice* by itself and is often mixed with chocolate.
The first couple of places we visited were Skálholt and this weirdly blue lake crater thing where apparently, Björk played once (on a raft).
* the bad kind
Day Two (Afternoon)
Day Two (Evening)
We were staying at Árhús that evening, which had a great summer camp feel (we even played a little M:TG at night). We explored a bunch, checked in there, then went out to explore some more. It stayed light until about midnight, so we had lots of time each day to do outdoor things.
We hit up the elves and trolls museum (elves are the same size as people, invisible, and jerks!) and the ghost museum (too scary!). The narrower of the two waterfalls below you could walk behind, which was amazing. We got chased out by a sheep.
Black buildings with white or colored trim = one of my favorite things about Iceland.
Day Three
In the morning, we visited the Eyjafjallajökull museum (that volcano that erupted and stopped a lot of flights back in 2010). Then down to Vik, the southernmost city in Iceland, known for black sand beaches, which are quite literally black.
We had a long drive, though, as we needed to get to the Country Hotel Hali and wanted to get a bit further up the ring road (the main road around Iceland) even to check out Hofn – which turned out to be an awesome little fishing town. We went to Pakkhús for dinner and both had the langoustine, which was fantastic even for me, not being much of a seafood guy.
Day Four (Glacial Lagoon)
The glacial lagoon (Jökulsárlón) was perhaps the most surreal and beautiful place we visited. The Breiðamerkurjökull glacier melts and forms this giant lake. The glacial wall breaks apart, dropping icebergs into a lake the size of houses. The icebergs melt from the bottom, and when the bottom becomes lighter than the top, the iceberg flips. The lake is packed with them.
The icebergs make their way through a channel into the ocean, where they are broken up by the waves. Crystal-clear pieces of ice wash up on the black sand beach and look just amazing. Seals also make their way into the lake sometimes (we were lucky enough to see some).
Later that evening, we took a zodiac boat tour through the lake (!!). It was 7km to the glacial wall (it really is a huge lake). Sadly I lost my point-and-shoot camera in the suit thingy we had to wear.
We had to chase sheep off the road once in a while (as you do).
Day Four (Puffins)
We took a tractor about 45 minutes through rivers and waterlogged beach/marsh out to a weird foggy island in the distance. It was actually where Iceland was first settled! And it is home to some sheep, great skua, and puffins!
Day Five
In the morning we took a small plane tour over glaciers and coast. The brochure for these tours make it seem like some big professional operation, but actually it was just this guy and his wife who live in a tiny little house that is also the tour office.
Then we had another long drive back down to Hotel Selfoss. I was bummed to miss the Icelandic circus which was in town. So we just got drunk and ate Iceland fast food (Pulsuvagninn).
Day Six
We hit up the Blue Lagoon on our way back to Reykjavík. It’s probably the most touristy thing you can do in Iceland, but totally worth it. It’s a giant outdoor hot tub heated geothermally where you wipe mud all over yourself and drink at the swim-up bar, then eat in your robes at the fancy restaurant.
Back in Reykjavík, we went out shopping and whatnot. We hit up The Lebowski Bar, which wasn’t too obnoxiously themed and had a great White Russian (in fact, a whole menu of different types). Pretty fancy dinner at Grillmarkadurinn where we tasted a bit of whale (no puffin, though).
Day Seven
Breakfast was, as it was every day: bread! cold cuts! cucumbers! egg! Last day. It would have been sad if it wasn’t so fun to be back in town!
We went to the The Icelandic Phallological Museum (penis museum) which was just what it sounds like. Lots of dicks. That’s a sperm whale dick there below. No human specimen though, which inspired an entire documentary that I really need to watch. Giving the city a bit more flair, it was also pride week!
Lunch at The Noodle Station, which was delicious (except don’t tell them to “go big” when they ask you how spicy you want it.) We ended up back at The English Pub for some shots of Brennivín, and Icelandic schnapps that defies description.
There is a wonderfully atmospheric graveyard that was actually a bit of a shortcut from our hotel to downtown, so we went through it naturally.
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